Chain maille jeweller Connie Wilkinson
Connie Wilkinson, who lives near Coldstream NB, has an amazing résumé that touches on just about everything creative from woodworking to oil painting and even a sign business that she operated for over 40 years. “I also knit, sew and crochet,” she adds, “but these days I’m best known for chain maille jewellery.” Wilkinson’s work can be found at the O’Toole Gallery in Grafton NB as well as at regional craft festivals.
The word “maille” comes from the French meaning fabric or mesh; chain maille was the earliest form of metal armour. It was likely invented before the 5th century by the Celts or Norse and was used for nearly 1000 years. The armour fabric was made by linking metal rings and then pressing or welding them together following a prescribed pattern.
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| Painting since she was a teenager, Ms Wilkinson says she hated to sell work like this when market prices were so low. |
I’ve never seen chain maille anywhere before, Connie. How did you get into making it?
I read a lot of historical romance novels and chain maille is mentioned, as armour, a lot in the period that the books are set. For years I wanted a pair of chain maille earrings and couldn’t find them. So I went online, found out about it and thought, “I could make that”. So I made seven pairs.
Do many people practice this ancient craft?
Most who try it don’t stay with it because it’s so labour intensive and the patterns can be tricky. There’s quite a few makers in the States that I’ve found through web searches but I don’t know of anyone locally. There is someone in Saint John NB but what’s there is very expensive.
What are your prices like?
The prices depend on what I’m making. Earrings, at $20 a pair, take me about an hour. The necklaces that I sell for $69 take about 18 hours. If I sold online I’d probably get more.
Are you using precious metals?
I use plain copper ─ rumoured to help with arthritis ─ for bracelets and rings. Because of the copper tarnish, I buy silver-plated craft wire or copper coloured wire for necklaces and earrings. I’d like to make some solid silver bracelets but the wire is so expensive ─ it would cost about $350 just for the materials. I also buy antique jewellery and tear it apart for the stones.
People are fascinated with chain maille,
it's so different.
These pieces here are very intricate. How do you do it?
To start with, you need to coil the wire. You can buy a machine for that but I use a portable drill fitted with a knitting needle instead of a bit. You cut the coils into small rings and then follow a pattern like in knitting. (See photo at top of page.)
Where do you find these patterns?
There are hundreds of patterns and styles ─ Japanese, English, European ─ and many are very old. I find them online and try and figure out how to do it. But it’s hard to get started. One pattern took me three days! So now I keep a little piece of a pattern that I like and start a new piece of jewellery right on it, build it, then separate it.
You’re quite an accomplished painter as well. Do you still do oils?
I started painting when I was 16 ─ went to night school and even took a few correspondence courses. But since chain maille I don’t have much time to paint. I spend the summer getting ready for the Christmas rush and all winter getting ready for the tourist season. There’s just not enough time!
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| Samples of Wilkinson’s intricate jewellery including a head-dress which she says always attracts a lot of attention. “It’s all so different,” she says, “people are fascinated.” Watch for chain maille Christmas ornaments this fall. |